2011 Don Melchor

I tasted three bottled vintages of the iconic Cabernet Sauvignon from the Puente Alto appellation in the Maipo Valley, the classical zone for the Bordeaux grape in Chile, starting with the 2011 Don Melchor; this wine had plenty of aromas of graphite, iron, cold ashes, blood and fresh meat -- denoting freshness and seriousness. This year only has 1% Cabernet Franc blended in -- one of the lower, if not the lowest years ever. With time, the more balsamic aromas emerge, which also gives some brightness and light to the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with some sweet fruit and the core of fine-grained, classical Cabernet tannins. This is a fresh, elegant vintage of Don Melchor, a prototype Cabernet from Alto Maipo. 125,000 bottles produced.

Just been released. Even cooler and drier than 2010. Just 1% Cabernet Franc. Blackish crimson. A bit more mono-dimensional blackcurrant than the 2010. Big and super fruity. Acidity is a little more marked than in 2010. Reasonably fine tannins. A little less voluptuous and obvious than the 2010 but it may well last longer and develop into something regal. There’s still the note of fermented blackcurrant pastilles. Very refined. (JR)

Very dark crimson. Mellow, sweet nose, 100% Napa! Sweet start and then a little leathery, almost Syrah-like on the finish. I must say I treasure the freshness in the much cheaper Marques de Casa Concha bottling from the same stable. But there’s an attractive tea-leaf quality to this. I just don’t think it’s worth three times the Marques but I suppose that is the nature of ‘icon’ pricing. (JR)