2017 Felseneck Spatlese GK
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Tasting notes
From the estate’s oldest Felseneck vines, this was picked the same day as the “regular” Spätlese and from material that Fröhlich reports was visually virtually indistinguishable. While even glossier in feel and flatteringly creamy, it preserves the same sense of start-to-finish transparency to billowing floral and shimmering stony nuances. The floral bouquet alone is head-turning. Apple and quince, grapefruit and lime exhibit a striking combination of freshness and concentration, with piquancy of pit, pip and honeysuckle stem serving for counterpoint en route to a finish of riveting penetration, near-kaleidoscopic complexity, and exhilarating vibrancy. (The first bottle Fröhlich opened having been tainted – something nowadays blessedly rare at this address – I take this opportunity to mention that the long, optically gorgeous corks he is employing throughout most of his range cost him just shy of two Euros.)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
From the same vineyard, the Felseneck Goldkapsel is not a superior version of the ‘ordinary’ Spätlese, but a totally different wine. The fruit is not only more exotic, but has also been allowed centre stage, for once casting minerality and herbaceous notes as no more than competent support acts. A wonderfully invigorating acidity makes its presence felt too, but it’s the tasteful sprinkling of zesty orange peel which delivers the coup de grâce. (MS)