2016 Scharzhofberger Spatlese

White peach, mango, and lime inform a heady nose, then are joined by nearly overripe quince and Persian melon on a creamy and expansive palate. “We picked out any fruit that was tinged with botrytis so as to be able to render a clear Kabinett,” explained Mertes, “but I didn’t feel that it was at a level of concentration or ennoblement that would have merited declaring the wine Auslese.” To me, while exotic, this bottling does indeed epitomize Spätlese, with what for this collection is an extremely high level of acidity (8.6 grams, to be precise) acting to check 69 grams of residual sugar while conducing to downright refreshing juiciness. The finish – at once soothing and stimulating – is luscious, clear and resounding.

VDP Grosse Lage. Strong herbal character, almost nettley. And tastes relatively dry for a Spätlese. Delicate and very beautiful in that delicacy. More citrus on the palate, elegant and long. VGV (JH)

An intricate fragrance combines fresh citrus fruit, fine herbal notes and a dusty mineral aroma. On the palate von Kesselstatt’s Scharzhofberger tantalises the taste buds with  invigorating acidity, zesty grapefruit, green herbs and a profound stony minerality. The acidity is brisk but not sharp and works in perfect harmony with an almost understated sweetness. Sometimes conventional can still be inspiring. (MS)