2018 Brauneberger Juffer Trockenbeerenauslese

“We searched everywhere [in Juffer] over the entire course of harvest for the shriveled grapes that informed this wine,” reported Haag. And as sometimes happens when there is shriveling, here not just flavors and sugars were prominently concentrated, but also acidity. Candied lemon and lime peels; quince, mirabelle and apricot preserves; and a light layering of caramel and marzipan inform a heady nose and a palate that, despite its gloss, seductive creaminess, honeyed viscosity and sheer sweetness, leads into a finish of remarkable vibrancy and clarity, one revealing both animating juiciness of fresh citrus and mouthwatering salinity. (I tasted this the day before it was to have been bottled, but it had already withstood filtration as well as sulfuring, and I have every confidence that no mishaps will have been allowed to occur thereafter.)