2017 Charmes Chambertin

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, from vines planted in the early 1980s, is two-thirds Mazoyères-Chambertin and the rest from Charmes-Chambertin, including 50% whole bunch fruit this year. It has a concentrated bouquet with red berry fruit, pressed iris and incense aromas that reveals floral scents with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit and fine acidity. I find this a little sinewy in style and just cutting off somewhat abruptly towards the finish compared to the superior Mazis-Chambertin.

This too is quite firmly reduced and tough to aromatically read today. The mouthfeel of the Champeaux is reasonably refined though here it's finer still even with the additional size, weight and volume of the dusty, tension-filled and youthfully austere finale. However, unlike the Champeaux, the supporting tannins make clear that this will need at least a decade of patience first.

Contains one-third Mayozères since 1996 but this part of Mayozères is more like the Charmes terroir with little round pebbles. 100% new oak and 60% whole bunch. Glorious aroma full of spice and peppery black fruit. Plus a dusty/mineral overlay adding sophistication. So juicy on the palate, the oak well hidden between the charming red fruits here. Really pretty and showing its origins even with the robust healthiness of all these wines. Fine tannins, so beautifully scented with fruit on the mid palate and super-long. Delicious and will surely become more so. (JH)