2016 Meursault Genevrieres

The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières was somewhat protected from the frosts by some early morning cloud cover, and the resulting wine is superb, offering up aromas of green orchard fruit, citrus zest, hazelnut cream, blanched almonds and drawn butter. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and satiny, with excellent depth and dimension, tangy acids and chewy structuring extract, displaying appreciably more amplitude and volume than the Caillerets and Rougeots that preceded it. Elegant but powerful, this is a beautiful Genevrières.

(just a bit of frost here; these heavily virused vines planted in the 1950s routinely produce tiny grapes, according to Coche): Lively aromas of lime, lemon and crushed stone. At once dense and penetrating, conveying terrific concentration and inner-mouth tension. (Coche told me he considers this wine to be "almost at the level of the unfrosted vineyards in 2016.") This dynamic Genevrières communicates a strong impression of dry extract and finishes with terrific lift and slowly mounting floral perfume. Lay it down for at least five or six years.