2016 Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg Spatlese

Pear, white peach and quince are lightly overlain on the nose with a veil of CO2 and yeast, but bursting with primary juiciness on a luscious, silken palate that boasts Kabinett-like delicacy with Spätlese concentration and ripeness of flavor. A cooling hint of mint, green tea pungency and an undertone of wet stone add fascination and allure to a finish of fine – albeit for Herrenberg, surprisingly sedate and soothing – persistence. The flavor intensity is clearly partly driven by an abundance of ripe acidity; in fact, the level is higher here than in the corresponding Kabinett, though I wouldn’t have guessed that. Smoky and stony notes emerge with longer exposure to air, and I don’t doubt that this already impressive Spätlese will improve with time. But I don’t envision the sort of animation or quite the transparency to active mineral impingements emerging here that one already experiences with that Kabinett.

Stony, almost peppery on the nose, though that could be something to do with the sulphur that I think I detect at the moment. Richer on the palate, just-ripe apricot as well as pure lemon freshness. Less sweet than I expected in the overall balance with this low alcohol. Juicy and full of fruit. (JH)

This is a lovely wine, and you would have to be a joyless person not to like it. Very delicate herbal character and the freshness of a mountain stream. Drink now or within the next decade.