2015 Rheinschiefer Hallgarten Riesling
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Tasting notes
Like its 2014 predecessor, this weighs in under 12 percent alcohol and features fruit not only from Hallgartener Hendelberg but also from young vines in the Jungfer and Schönhell. Intimations of wet stone appear from the first whiff, along with anticipations of the fresh lime, ripe white peach, bittersweet iris perfume and cooling green herbal infusions that dominate on a silken yet simultaneously animatingly juicy, bright midpalate. Walnut and lime zest lend piquant counterpoint while wet stone serves as a conspicuous backdrop. This misses quite the transparency and complexity of that corresponding 2014, but nonetheless finishes with a fascinating interaction of floral, fruity and stony elements, not to mention impressive persistence.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Kühn's 2015 Rheingau Riesling Trocken Hallgarten Rheinschiefer has an intense straw yellow color and displays a beautifully clear, ripe and intense Riesling bouquet with characteristic spicy flavors. This is old school Riesling at its best and one of the most attractive noses of the entire Rheingau. It is so precise and well defined, so warm, ripe and cool at the same time; the expression is that of ripe and concentrated Riesling berries on the warm slate soils of the Hallgarten vineyards. The wine is medium-bodied, very mineral and elegant, revealing a remarkable finesse and citrus flavors. It seems to flow over the palate with spikes of salts and phenols. It is not that this wine has a tremendous length or complexity, but in its purity and classic style, it is one of the finest village wines you can find along the Rhine. The finish is extremely stimulating.
The uncompromising herbaceous approach makes both mouth and eyes water. I readily admit that the slate of the Hallgarten slopes pulls out all the mineral stops and adds a fascinating slant to the crunchy green-fruit expression. Kühn uses very little residual sugar and gives the invigorating acidity free rein. A dry Riesling for the demanding, but not the faint-hearted. (MS)