2015 Clos Vougeot

Healthy dark red. Slightly high-toned aromas of kirsch and herbs come across as distinctly exotic after my tasting of the 2016s here. Similarly, there's a liqueur-like element on the palate that has not yet harmonized with the wine's higher-toned minty greenness. This chewy, rather tannic wine, vinified with 70% whole clusters, will need some time in bottle for its sweet/tart streak to harmonize. The tannins are serious but arrive late. Not a particularly elegant example of Clos-Vougeot.

(from vines next to the wall by Grands-Echézeaux). Moderate reduction presently renders the nose tough to read but there is fine freshness and energy to the intense, rich and muscular big-bodied flavors that retain a solid sense of detail before culminating in a firm, serious and built-to-age finish. There is some youthful austerity present as well as a touch of rusticity and this is going to require an extended stay in a cool cellar to resolve the tannic spine.

(70% vendange entier ): Dark red-ruby. Aromas of medicinal black cherry, graphite and herbs, plus a musky coffee nuance; this smells a bit like a Médoc Cabernet! Rich, broad and moderately ripe, showing good juicy acidity but little easy sweetness. The medicinal quality carries onto the palate. Finishes with distinctly firm-edged tannins. Charles Lachaux noted that although these vines are now 60 years old, they are a clonal selection that's "not as fine" as most of the estate's other plantings. He's still trying to force the roots deeper and hopes to be able to vinify this wine entirely with whole bunches soon.