1984 Ruchottes Chambertin

Like the 1977 tasted just before it, the 1984 Ruchottes-Chambertin comes from a derided growing season and vaulted over expectations with its respectable showing. It has a slightly caramel-tinged bouquet that, to me, implied a little over-zealous chaptalization, though that does not leave you feeling aggrieved or short-changed. The palate is fresh on the entry with raspberry and redcurrant notes, bitter orange and a terse, slightly coarse finish that scarpers out of the exit as if embarrassed by its performance when frankly, it has no need. Drink soon if you have any bottles. Tasted at the Ruchottes-Chambertin vertical in London.