2014 Clos de la Roche

Good full medium red, the densest color of the range in 2014, as there was a lot of millerandage and thick skins here. Sexy scents of strawberry, cassis, damson plum, red licorice, spices and pepper. Red and darker fruit flavors are enlivened by spices and minerals and accented by a peppery element. Conveys a tiny-berry intensity of flavor, not to mention superb energy and lift. I love the combination of ripeness and mineral tension here, not to mention the contribution of 25% whole clusters to the structure of the wine. Should evolve very slowly.

Notably deep crimson. Not that expressive on the nose. Very racy and lively. Mid weight and a little severe at the moment but it should come out of its shell. Lots of substance and crunch. Tasted again on 18 Jan 2017: Real edge of texture – extremely youthful. At the moment it seems a bit bitter and requires an act of faith to commit at this price. I think on the basis of the lesser wines it is pretty certain to deliver eventually and certainly throbs with vitality on the end. At the moment it’s all on the finish. 18+ Drink 2025-42 (JR)

(these vines were planted in the '50s and '60s; the crop level here was 32 hectoliters per hectare in 2014, with the yield reduced 15% by hail): Bright red-ruby. Knockout, slightly high-toned nose combines raspberry, smoked meat, underbrush, spices, dried flowers and mocha. Boasts a texture of liquid silk but also shows superb energy and tension to its dark raspberry, spice and mineral flavors. Firmly tannic and authoritative on the classic finish, which displays outstanding mineral lift and a note of dark chocolate.