2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
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Tasting notes
Darkly floral and earthy in the glass, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wafts up with wilted violets, underbrush and exotic spice, all lifted by hints of mint. It swirls across the palate with ease, elevated by brilliant acidity as mineral-drenched red berry fruits slowly saturate the senses. This tapers off with fantastic length and a spicy concentration, leaving the mouth salivating for more as a hint of licorice slowly fades. Glorious. While not labeled as such, the 2004 Riserva hails entirely from the Bassolino di Sopra vineyard.
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Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the most puzzling wine I have ever tasted at Pian dell'Orino. For so many years, the wine appeared to be excessively forward. For whatever reason or reasons, this example is stellar. Today, the 2004 Riserva is silky, polished and exceptionally beautiful. Still finessed and bright for a wine of its age, the 2004 emerges with pretty notes of red stone fruits, flowers, sweet tobacco, cedar and mint. Readers lucky enough to own it can look forward to another decade or so of fine drinking. In 2004, the Riserva was made from the estate's Pian Bossolino vineyard.
The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has improved considerably since I last tasted it two years ago. Firm yet well-balanced tannins support expressive dark red cherries, flowers, licorice, tobacco and spices. The oxidative notes that were so prominent have become more subdued, while the fruit seems to have gained in freshness and depth. Don't ask me how that is possible, because I honestly don't know. All I can say is that the 2004 Riserva today is a much better wine than the three bottles I tasted previously. It will be interesting to see what the future holds in store.
The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has improved considerably since I last tasted it two years ago. Firm yet well-balanced tannins support expressive dark red cherries, flowers, licorice, tobacco and spices. The oxidative notes that were so prominent have become more subdued, while the fruit seems to have gained in freshness and depth. Don’t ask me how that is possible, because I honestly don’t know. All I can say is that the 2004 Riserva today is a much better wine than the three bottles I tasted previously. It will be interesting to see what the future holds in store. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. It is hard to imagine how much Jan Erbach and Caroline Pobitzer have accomplished in just a few years. Erbach and Pobitzer embody the same adventurous, risk-taking ethos one rarely sees in Montalcino, but which is much more common among top-flight, artisan growers in Burgundy, Piedmont and Champagne. Pian dell’Orino is still a young estate, and the wines can sometimes be a bit inconsistent, especially the Riserva, which I don’t think is still fully formed from a conceptual standpoint. Still, I have little doubt the potential is there for Pian dell’Orino to be one of the top ten producers in Montalcino in a few years. The writing is on the wall. Hard work, passion and dedication always pay off. Jan Erbach describes 2007 as similar to 2003, with the exception of rain during July, which helped the vines recuperate a bit. The harvest was earlier than normal and took place from September 20 to October 1. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404