2013 Clos Vougeot

The 2013 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, which included 30% whole clusters, has a relatively rustic bouquet with ferrous red berry fruit and loamy undergrowth/damp moss scents. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, a bit chewy, a broad-shouldered Clos de Vougeot with a grippy and perhaps even uncompromising finish. I feel that the Domaine has upgraded its Clos de Vougeot since this vintage.

Deep red with ruby highlights. Riper and blacker but a bit monolithic on the nose and palate. Black cherry and licorice scents lead to dark raspberry and crushed stone in the mouth. Not at all herbal but in a very cool style and tightly wound. This powerful, backward, youthfully uncompromising wine is hard to taste today owing to its firm tannic spine and strong medicinal reserve. Will it ultimately surpass the more sensual Grands-Echézeaux?

Bright medium ruby. Discreet, aristocratic nose hints at black cherry, licorice and violet; really communicates an impression of cold terroir . Densely packed, sweet and thick on the attack, then powerful and rather strict in the middle, with firm acidity giving shape and tension to the dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes vibrant, salty and very long, with the solid tannins hitting the palate late. Inexpressive today but should enjoy a very graceful and long evolution in bottle.