2014 Hermitage
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Tasting notes
There was no Ex Voto produced in 2014, so the 2014 Hermitage has all the estate Hermitage grapes, which I’m sure is why it has another level of depth and density. Offering a perfumed bouquet of cassis, black currants, crushed rocks, and a touch of graphite, it has a Burgundian elegance and purity on the palate, with medium body, silky tannins, and a great finish. It will drink well for 10-15 years. The big news at the Guigal estate is the purchase of Domaine de Nalys in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The family has always wanted an estate in the South, and Nalys is an unrealized treasure trove of awesome terroir and old vines, both of which I’ve no doubt will be maximized by this talented family. In addition, the former winemaker at Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Jacques Desvernois, has joined the team, and while it’s not clear exactly what his role will be, I suspect he will largely lead the charge at Domaine de Nalys. Either way, Desvernois is an incredible talent and can only add to what is already a well-oiled machine. As to the wines reviewed in this report, I was able to taste multiple vintages of each of the cuvées and have listed the wines by cuvée as opposed to by vintage, which is how we tasted through the wines.
Critic scores
Average Score
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Inky ruby. Pungent aromas of black currant, blueberry, licorice pastille and smoky minerals are complemented by a suave floral nuance. Sharply delineated and appealingly sweet, offering energetic black and blue fruit flavors and suggestions of candied violet and spicecake. Finishes impressively long and silky, delivering gentle tannic grip, building sweetness and a resonating mineral note that adds vibrancy and cut. There will be no Ex-Voto bottling from 2014, so all of that fruit went into this wine, which shows a distinctly elegant character for an Hermitage.
Bottled a week before my visit in November 2017, the 2014 Hermitage is a silky, ready-to-drink version that includes the juice normally reserved for Guigal’s Ex Voto bottling. Cedar and vanilla notes from the larger-than-usual proportion of new oak accent cherry fruit.
Contains what would have been Ex-Voto. Plenty of oak spice, but plenty of fruit too. Orange peel, lemon and lime, thick and powerful on the palate. There's an oxidative quality on the nose, which isn't anathema to the style, but suggests early drinking, I think. But then Hermitage can often confound expectations! (RH)