2013 Kusuda Riesling

This was bottled under screw cap, compared with the same 2013 cuvée sealed with a natural cork. Hiro Kusuda has been bottling the Riesling under both closures since the first 2002 vintage, which was released in 2004. So, these two cuvees were poured side by side. This 2013 Riesling is the same color as its "under cork" sibling, and yet on the nose, it is bursting with straw and lemon pith intensity. In the mouth, the wine is mineral and poised, totally taut and tensile, and somehow there is more clarity here—more visibility (to borrow a diving term). It has the same scratched lime zest and pithy, briny quality, and yet the softer characters of white chocolate, etc. are just not present here. This has energy and focus (as does its sibling), but it sings at a higher pitch. Fascinating. One wine is for focus; one is for texture. It's your call; both are excellent. 12% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.