2010 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille

Ripe fruit and posh oak in equal measures, but this has real style because the fruit is not overburdened by the oak. Lots of coating, clay-like tannins. Modern approach with lots of oak yet with real complexity on the finish. (WS)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is darker, richer and more voluptuous than the Rennina. There the flavors are dark and assertive, with notable mid-palate richness and overall volume that flows through to the finish. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and cloves all fill out the wine's broad-shouldered frame nicely. Hints of mocha, chocolate, spices and black-fleshed fruit add the final layers of nuance. Here, too, readers will have to be patient, although my sense is that the Sugarille will open up before the Rennina, which is quite unusual, but reflective of where both wines are today.

The Gaja family's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille opens to striking intensity and beauty that is apparent even as you pour the wine from the bottle. The wine's appearance is dark and so perfectly saturated with dark garnet and ruby highlights. On the nose, it shows infinite aromas of dark fruit, plum, dried figs, licorice, grilled herbs, cola and so much more. The complexity is outstanding. The Sugarille single vineyard delivers power and structure that gives this wine such a firm presence on the palate. But you also get a great sense of the quality of fruit that was harvested in 2010. Angelo Gaja skipped the 2009 vintage. But this vintage makes up for the loss with its long aging potential. This is an amazing wine to put way at the back of your cellar for ten years or more. What a delight.