2004 Solo MM4

The estate's 2004 Solo MM4 Vitovska is made from an isolated parcel which in the past had been blended into the regular bottling. It bursts from the glass with extraordinary aromatics and masses of opulent spices, apricots and candied orange peel that coat the palate with a thrilling intensity that is hard to fully capture with mere words. Boasting a seamless texture and a finish that lasts forever, it is a remarkable achievement from this young estate. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012. I vividly remember the first time I tasted a Vodopivec wine. The vintage was 2001 and I nearly fell out of my chair. This small property is located in the rugged Carso mountain range above Trieste. Until fairly recently the Vodopivec brothers focused on horticulture, their main commercial activity. Their vineyards are located in an inhospitable, rocky terroir which is home to a small patchwork of plots suitable for the vine. Vodopivec produce only Vitovska, an indigenous variety that shares similar characteristics with Ribolla Gialla. In 2004 they have a new wine, Solo MM4, which is a vineyard selection taken from a single parcel. The vineyards are planted to an extremely high density of 10,000 plants per hectare and yields are kept to a miniscule 500 grams per plant, which is less than the yields of all but the most fanatical red wine producers in Italy's top regions. Winemaking is minimalist, to say the least. In 2004 the harvest took place towards the end of September. Fermentation and maceration was done in wood vats without temperature control, and lasted about 15 days, using only natural yeasts. The wines were then racked into 30-hectoliter barrels where they spent a minimum of 25 months prior to being bottled without fining or filtration. These phenomenal whites are among the most un-manipulated wines being made in Italy today. They will challenge readers' perceptions about what white wines can and should be about. For those adventurous enough to give them a try, an immensely rewarding world of new experiences awaits. As is the case with all whites fermented on the skins, the wines should be served at cellar temperature or slightly above, but not chilled. I generally prefer larger glasses suitable for Pinot Noir which will allow for the fullest expression of the wines' aromatics. Importer: PWM MERCHANTS, Astoria NY, tel. (718) 777-2288