2012 Chambertin
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Tasting notes
Healthy medium red. Deep aromas of raspberry, smoked meat, dried flowers, spices and herbs. A very deep, powerful black hole of a wine, showing strong menthol reserve and little easy sweetness to the flavors of kirsch , dark berries and soil. Seriously chewy and tactile wine but still an infant today. Most impressive right now on the back half, which features big, ripe tanins and great slow-building aromatic persistence.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Yes, Olivier Bernstein has added four barrels of the king of wines to his collection of crus in 2012 and 2013. Good bright, dark red. Discreet aromas of wild dark berries and iron. Thick, large-scaled, dry and utterly backward. In a distinctly masculine, soil-inflected style, with its silky texture leading to a seriously sappy finish featuring big, chewy tannins and outstanding saline, juicy persistence. This will need extended cellaring.
An addition to the range, the 2012 Chambertin flows across the palate with plenty of Bernstein's signature richness. The 2012 is expressive and enveloping in texture, but more reserved in its aromas and flavors. The Chambertin is also a bigger, broader wine than the Bèze, but a bit less complex and nuanced, at least today. Given Bernstein's success with his other vineyards, it will be interesting to see what he does with this fruit going forward.
55-60% whole bunch, 100% new oak. A new wine for them, from old vines. Dark chestnut crimson. Heady and masculine on the nose. Concentrated and very firm and long with many layers. Quite a triumph. Concentration without heaviness. And the firmness you would seek. (JR)
About the producer
Olivier Bernstein is among the most successful producers in Burgundy, setting the bar high for the growing number of micro-négociants in the region by producing wines that compete with those of the Côte d’Or’s finest domaines.