2002 Corton Charlemagne

Very subdued nose hints at apple, minerals and nutty oak. Then intensely flavored, penetrating and youthfully backward, with bracing flavors of apple, spiced pear and powdered stone. Very densely packed, spicy wine that's currently dominated by its powerful spine. This needs a good five or six years to blossom in the bottle and may well merit a higher score.

A profound, light to medium-bodied wine, the 2002 Corton-Charlemagne bursts from the glass with minerals, flowers, fresh herbs, and hints of mint. It is a pure, fleshy offering of outstanding depth, concentration, and power. Loads of sappy minerals are intermingled with spices and apples in its refined, noble character. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802. In addition, Vincent Girardin sells many of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars, Eric Solomon, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949

Seems relatively simple. Lots of minerality and a certain amount of citrus tension. It’s trying! Competent, but not necessarily more exciting than the Folatières. (JR)