2006 Batard Montrachet

That Girardin chose to serve his 2006 Batard-Montrachet (of which he has six barrels) after a superbly refined, mysterious Chevalier-Montrachet, might be explained by the sheer power and almost gaudy richness of the former. Pineapple, baked peach and apple, vanilla, coconut, and lily flower rise voluminously from the glass. Polished, glossy, and creamy, the palate presence of this cru is expansive, palpably dense, and ultra-ripe. But in the finish, this wine amazingly manages to keep pace with the length and mineral intensity – even if not quite the intrigue – of the Chevalier, leaving behind a mound of crushed stone. This should be as long-lived as the Chevalier, if never quite as fascinating. Incidentally, Girardin purchased fruit from Le Montrachet in 2004 but did not repeat in 2005 or 2006. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.