2001 Clos Vougeot

Medium red. Very reticent, slightly reductive aromas of licorice and menthol. Silky on entry, then minerally and tight in the middle and youthfully austere. But this pure, intense wine finishes with superb lift and perfume and firm tannins that show no sign of hardness. This will need a good six or seven years of patience. I would not be at all surprised if the Mugnerets' compellingly pure 2001 grand crus merited higher scores with time in bottle.

Medium red-ruby, less saturated than the last three wines. Pungent but austere nose dominated by stony minerality. Cool, minerally and unforthcoming; less sweet than the last few samples and playing hard to get today. Finishes very long and austere, with firm, dusty tannins. Very backward wine and hard to judge today.