1996 Nuits St Georges Les Porrets St Georges

This medium-to-dark ruby-colored wine reveals rich, spicy, and sweet black cherry aromas. It is a feminine-styled Nuits, with lush red and black fruits and minerals in its medium-to-full-bodied, forward, chewy-textured and seductive flavor profile. Interestingly, this wine's finish is firmer and more "Nuits" than its attack or mid-palate suggested. However, readers should not be concerned as the tannins are well-ripened and supple. Projected maturity: 1999-2005. I am happy to report that progress at Domaine Henri Gouges continues. Run by Pierre and Christian Gouges, respectively responsible for the viticulture and wine-making, the estate is charging forward to reclaim its spot as one of Nuits most highly respected domaines. As with every estate in Burgundy - (most were reluctant to admit it) - the 1996 yields were much higher than normal, averaging 45 hectoliters/hectare (as opposed to 35 h/h in 1995 and 29.7 h/h in 1997). However, the wines are rich, dense, and have lovely ripe fruit characteristics. The Gouges' threw out their filters in 1991, and only fine if they feel the tannins require softening. The wines I tasted were still on their lees (except for the white which had been bottled in September, 1997), and were going to be racked in February and then bottled a month later (earlier than normal). Christian Gouges felt as though they would not require fining. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.

Good deep red. Black raspberry, resiny oak and a whiff of fresh blood. Sweeter and creamier in the middle palate, with more depth of flavor. But shows a trace of old barrel. Finishes firm and slightly dry. Gouges says this wine is for relatively early drinking.