2006 Bonnes Mares

Pungent incense, and herbal concentrates; ginger and cinnamon; kirsch and framboise distillates, along with their dark flesh-and-juice fresh counterparts, all practically assault the nose from Roumier's 2006 Bonnes Mares. This saturates the palate with sweet ripeness and liqueur-like textural richness, while cherry pit, black pepper, and peat offer counterpoint. A savory carnal undertone adds another intriguing dimension. The concentration and resonance of spices, herbs and fruit in the finish is superb. Here is a Bonnes Mares much more complex and dynamic at this youthful stage than the majority. In fact, I can't see that it would be a crime to drink some young, although it should age well for at least a dozen years. Rigorous triage - along with Christophe Roumier's seemingly intuitive sense for the limits and potential of the vintage - have resulted in a set of 2006s here that are youthfully generous, but in the best instances will be well worth cellaring. The fermentative regimen and elevage (including no racking until assemblage, to maximize contact with lees convey both fat and structure; yet early bottling to preserve fruit) were tailored to the vintage, whereas the regimen of new wood was little changed from other recent years, meaning around one-third for the premier crus. Stems were selectively included, up to something over one-third in the grand crus. I tasted these wines from barrel at 14 months and again from bottle at 18, and they had in most instances both gained textural allure as well as structure and refined their flavors, clearly demonstrating the success of Roumier's strategy. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Light and racy on the nose – more delicate than most Bonnes Mares. Very sweet with cherry juice. A little astringent on the finish. Just a slight lack of excitement. A bit weak. (JR)