2010 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres

Initially quite understated, the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres is a wine that impresses for its silkiness above all else. White flowers, mint, spices and peaches flesh out on the finish, but ultimately the Folatieres is all about texture. Although it is quite appealing today, I get the sense the wine needs another year or so to be fully expressive. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Smokily fragrant with a fine lime freshness on the nose. Hint of ginger. Then a savoury mealiness on the palate making a great counterpoint. Concentrated, precise and long. GV (JH)

Bright pale-medium yellow. Yellow peach, fresh pineapple, white flowers and a hint of stone on the nose. Very ripe and mouthfilling, but with brisk, harmonious acidity giving lift to the ripe pineapple and peach flavors complicated by nuts and marzipan. Finishes fresh, with nothing austere about it.