2006 Gevrey Chambertin Evocelles

Bernard Dugat's largely old vines 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles incorporates a newly acquired parcel in this still under-appreciated site high above Brochon and bordering Champeaux, and he reports that there will be more acreage on-line soon. Among the welcome characteristics of this site is advanced ripeness without elevated grape sugars. Combining ethereal distilled cherry and black raspberry essence with the bitter-edged fresh manifestation of tiny, ripe berries, this offers sappy richness and tenacity yet at the same time vivacity and lift. Chalk, iodine, and a mysteriously crystalline sense of minerality offer a dynamic interplay with the fruit, while ultra-fine tannins enable a seductively satiny texture. (This was half vendange entier, incidentally.) It's hard, frankly, to imagine this going through a bad spell, but I would not hesitate to consider following it for a decade. As usual, Bernard Dugat prided himself on having been able to harvest ahead of the ban de vendange thanks to the intensity of his vineyard labors and to yields of around 25 hectoliters per hectare. (He also credits the accumulated effects of three years on a biodynamic regimen.) Potential alcohol was for the most part in the high 12s, and only a handful of cuvees were lightly chaptalized, Dugat reports. As usual, too, he employed significant percentages of whole clusters and stems in most wines. For further details on Bernard Dugat's approach, see my report in issue 170. Perhaps it hardly requires noting, but the prices of these wines continue to rise relentlessly, sadly but perhaps inevitably putting them out of the reach of most Burgundy lovers. And unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste the two red appellation Bourgogne bottlings of this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800