2007 Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee
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Tasting notes
The Girardin 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee – from nearly 60 year old vines, under contract – smells of smoke- and sea breeze-tinged fresh lime and red currant in a manner that puts me in mind of Ruwer Riesling. But this is all-Burgundy on the palate, with a silken texture, deep nuttiness, and a substantial sense of chalky underpinnings accompanying the energetic flow of citrus, put fruits, and berries. Here is another serious contender for up to a decade of interest. Vincent Girardin picked until past mid-September, with most of his top sites being brought in only from the 10th; allowed skin contact he would have avoided until recent years; and beat the lees on his young wines only until Christmas, but then bottled – with a light fining, and in many instances no filtration – only in May, 2009 to maximize passive time on the lees. The regimen of new wood here (now 20-30% depending on cru) represents a drastic diminution in just the past several years, and the 2007s strike me as far more comfortable in their skins than those of 2004-2006, benefiting also from the freshness and vivacity that characterize the vintage. He picked a week too late in 2006, opines Girardin with hindsight, but then, this was almost unavoidable in at least some instances for a vintner with such huge acreage. Girardin finds his 2007s especially marked by the typicity of each individual site, not only to a greater degree than in the two more obviously ripe preceding vintages, but also than in 2008. This is an aspect he is convinced will gradually be enhanced by a conversion to biodynamic methods that is underway. Girardin's 2007 musts were selectively chaptalized and finished wines here are largely in the vicinity of 13% alcohol. As usual, given the vast array of estate and negociant wines at this address (the latter status noted, where applicable, in my texts), I was not able to take time for tasting them all; in particular omitting the generics. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Pale, bright yellow. Pure, tight nose hints at pear, lemon, white tea and white flowers. Juicy, tangy and classically dry, showing more spice and mineral soil character than primary fruit. Very unevolved and in need of patience.
(recently racked) Ripe, inviting nose of tangerine, pineapple and crushed stone, lifted by an exotic suggestion of red grapefruit. Fat and broad but with a very restrained sweetness to its grapefruit and crushed stone flavors. Richer than the Caillerets but finishes with a youthful bitter edge.