2006 Echezeaux

The Arnoux 2006 Echezeaux smells of sassafras, aromatic woods, candied cherry, and game. The bittersweet fruit and herb flavors on the palate here emphasize bitterness, which along with a wet stone suggestion of things mineral and a more obvious grain of tannin than possessed by most of Lachaux's 2006s makes for a relatively austere overall impression. This is a wine of palate-staining intensity and formidable grip, but will it refine itself, reveal nuance, and become less dour over time? One should certainly plan on giving it 3-4 years in bottle before auditioning, at which point I am sure that another 6-8 years of good health will remain; the question is how much intrigue or sensual allure? This is comparable to the 2005 in quality, but surprisingly (in the context of these two Arnoux collections), it is the 2005 that in this instance possesses greater clarity, subtlety, and refinement, whereas the 2006 exhibits more sheer concentration and more obvious structure. Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com