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Tasting notes
I have never been able to work out the 2004 La Romanée Grand Cru, this poured from magnum by Louis-Michel Liger-Belair himself. It still comes across as herbaceous on the nose and that translated through to the uncharacteristically rustic palate. The leafiness comes across strongly on the finish. I maintain that this is the one duff vintage of La Romanée under Louis-Michel. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.
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Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Tasted at the La Romanée vertical at Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair. This is the second vexing bottle of 2004 La Romanée Grand Cru from Liger-Belair that I have encountered. There is a herbaceous note verging on vegetal that dominates the fruit underneath. The palate is medium-bodied, a little rustic and very leafy like so many 2004s. It has a Loire-like herbaceous, bell pepper finish that just does not feel correct. Caveat emptor. Tasted June 2015.
The 2004 La Romanée is penalized by overpowering vegetal notes and aggressive tannins, all of which leave the wine with an angular quality that dominates. Hints of smoke, tobacco, herb and mint struggle to come forward, but it is the wine's drying personality and hard contours that leave the strongest impression.
The 2004 La Romanée, which was served by Louis-Michel himself, has tasted a little variable in recent vintages. This is certainly one of the best examples, even if I think it has been surpassed several times in recent years. It has a pure and mineral-drive bouquet that shows none of those "green meanies" that can afflict this vintage. However, I did notice a faint struck-match element that became more pronounced with aeration. The palate is beautifully defined with mainly red, crystalline fruit infused with blood orange and cold stone toward the poised finish that tapers in slightly. Very fine.
About the producer
Since its rebirth in 2000, Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair has quickly become one of the most highly sought-after producers in Vosne-Romanée. The most prized wine from the estate is their monopole Grand Cru La Romanée.