2008 Oberhauser Leistenberg Kabinett

Mint and oregano; lime and blueberry; quarry dust and struck flint scent Donnhoff's 2008 Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett, which displays juicy citrus and cooling herbal notes on a palate of notable compactness and slatey intensity, dramatically different from the delicacy of the corresponding Krotenpfuhl. High-toned herbal essences, refreshing citrus, invigoratingly tart berry skin, and almost implacable minerality mark the long finish as well. This will be fascinating to follow for 12-15 years, during which it should gain in complexity and might display a more delicate and winsome side. It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300