2002 Oberhauser Leistenberg Kabinett
Estimated value
Buying options
Tasting notes
For the second year in a row, Helmut Donnhoff has established a new Kabinett benchmark. There is an ethereal, Chevalier-Montrachet-like, quality to his 2002 Riesling Kabinett Oberhauser Leistenberg. Its intense mineral liqueur aromas as well as flavors penetrate and dominate the taster. Harmonious, intense, concentrated, deep, of enormous purity and length, this wine earned a resounding “Wow!” in my notes. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2016. For the second year in a row, Helmut Donnhoff has left me shaking my head in wonder. Having tasted the greatest wines in the world, year in and year out, as a wine merchant and as a critic, did not prepare me for the awe-inspiring experience of tasting through Donnhoff’s 2001s and 2002s. They are magical, emotional, breath-taking. My words cannot do them justice. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Pierre Rovani
More reviews and scores
Very mute on the nose. Extremely tight, dry, and surly. Obviously precision winemaking, but the results are not yet obvious. Very clean, brisk finish. (JR)
Peach, apple and sweet perfume in the nose. Rather creamy and thick on the palate for Kabinett, with an insistent cantus firmus of slate. At the same time, though, there are invigorating ripe acids. Suggestions of red berries and tropical fruit enter into the long, engaging finish. 1 star.