2011 Chablis Fourchaume

Apple and grapefruit supply a crisp, tartly-juicy but ultimately also succulent fundament for the Brocard 2011 Chablis Fourchaume, whose sense of mineral complexity is, for now at least, confined to a mouthwatering hint of salt in an otherwise fruit-dominated but utterly delicious and sustained finish. This is something of a vintage archetype, or at least typifies received opinion about 2011 in its combination of delicacy, generosity and fruit dominance. I would plan on enjoying it through 2016. Julien Brocard reports unproblematic alcoholic fermentations and malo-lactic conversions in his 2012s, although the grand crus among them were not at a stage in elevage and assemblage that he felt permitted them to be assessed at the time of my June visit. The substantial subset of Brocard 2012 premier crus I tasted was determined by limitations of time; Brocard’s notion of wines that were at a perspicuous point in their elevage; and my choices of certain crus that I did not want to miss. Virtually all of the Brocard crus are now being farmed biodynamically and major inroads in that direction have been made with their village-level vineyards, too (most notably in the historical core of the family’s holdings that constitute the Domaine Sainte Claire). Julien Brocard is of the opinion that 2012 presented the sort of test in extremity that biodynamics at his domaine under-went as well in 2003, and that not only does this approach conduce to quality, but also to more regular yields. Yields from those vineyards that weren’t being biodynamically farmed, he reports, nosedived in both vintages while the others experienced only a small dip. Potential alcohol in 2012 was only slightly higher than in 2011, and nowadays most Brocard wines weigh-in well below 13%; but most of the sizeable share of 2011s I tasted – both the more exuberant among them, and some that were, for now at least, more restrained – share a disarming and delightful sense of levity. Vinificatory vessels at this address continue their nearly decade-long trend toward diversification, with larger barrels, full-fledged foudre and concrete eggs all supplementing the more prosaic stainless steel tanks and barriques. Incidentally, like Fevre, Brocard is now utilizing DIAM composite cork to stopper their wines, right up through grand cru. Various importers, including: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500, M.S. Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776-6700 and Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212) 683-8763

Full, bright yellow. Expressive nose offers honey, flowers and sneaky minerality. Round, fat and full in the mouth but with dusty minerality giving shape and energy to the soft citrus and honey flavors. Showing more tension and depth in bottle than it did last year from tank.

Slate, tar, licorice and rich, expressive yellow stone fruits burst from the glass in the 2011 Chablis Fourchaume. This is a striking, vivid wine endowed with notable clarity and precision. Layers of fruit built to the effortless, vibrant finish. Everything is simply in the right place. The Fourchaume was aged in oak, all of which is nicely balanced.