2002 Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes

Expressive nose combines lemon, roasted nuts, coconut and smoky oak. Sweet, silky and lush; wonderfully concentrated if a bit youthfully unforthcoming. Best today on the very long, palate-staining finish. Less floral and minerally than the Folatieres, but richer.

The boisterous nose of the 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Combettes bursts from the glass with loads of toasty minerals, white flowers, pears, and apples. An ample, intense, medium-bodied wine, it boasts a flavor profile of honeyed minerals, poached pears, and anise. This long, silky, concentrated effort also boasts a lengthy, supple finish. Projected maturity: now-2012. To Pierre Morey, the 2002s are “from normal yields and reflect their terroir, two signs of a great vintage.” He went on to add, “Though it was an easy year in the vineyard without any burnt grapes, freezes, or hail, I’ll admit we were very worried between the twentieth of August and tenth of September, when the weather was wet and dreary. Thankfully, we were saved by the north wind.” He added that in 2003, Puligny-Montrachet had battled freeze, multiple hailstorms, and oidium (powdery mildew). Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661