1992 Le Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche
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Tasting notes
The 1992 Montrachet Grand Cru has a clear straw color. The utterly entrancing bouquet offers fragrant yellow plum, dandelion and hints of butterscotch and honeysuckle. The palate is beautifully balanced with a mineral undercurrent. The acidity is pitch-perfect here, a twist of sour lemon lending all-important tension, and there’s a smack of shucked oyster shell on the energetic finish. This has matured with style and panache, though it still has many years of pleasure to give. Tasted at Drouhin’s Musigny vertical at La Trompette in London.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
The 1992 Montrachet Grand Cru from Marquis de Laguiche is clearly in the middle of its drinking plateau. Here with two decades on the clock, it has an attractive bouquet that offers subtle glimpses of orange blossom, citrus peel, pear drop and white peach aromas, although it does not possess the delineation of the '11 tasted alongside. The palate is slightly viscous on the entry, intimating that there might have been a little botrytis in the vineyard. It is a powerful Montrachet, a white Burgundy of sheer dimension, rather than tension or sophistication; a Montrachet that demands to be admired. While it is a great wine, it demonstrates how far this grand cru has come in the intervening period.
About the producer
Joseph Drouhin is one of the largest and most famous producers in Burgundy, making both domaine and négociant wines. It remains family-owned and run, now in the hands of the fourth generation.