1998 Clos St Denis
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The 1998 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru performs commendably given that I am not particularly fond of this growing season. The vibrant nose features black currant pastilles and a subtle marine influence; traits of kelp and iodine emerge with time. Very charming, and the whole-bunch addition is extremely well subsumed. The palate is medium-bodied, supple and fleshy, offering a caressing mouthfeel that you might mistake for a 1999. Granted, this 1998 is not as complex or as thrilling as the follow-up, yet it is nicely proportioned, with a discreet bitter edge on the sapid, conservative finish. Bottles can be consumed now but should give another 15 years of drinking pleasure. Tasted at the Clos Saint-Denis vertical at Hide restaurant. 92
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Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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About the producer
Domaine Dujac is one of Burgundy’s most famous wine estates. It crafts red Burgundies with a distinct style, from a fantastic array of vineyard plots, including seven Grands Crus.