2010 Chablis Vaillons

Whereas many of the 2010s are surprisingly open today, the 2010 Chablis Vaillons is one of the more reticent wines in the lineup. The aromas and flavors are a bit subdued at this stage, instead it is the wine’s textural finesse that impresses most. Michel says the Vaillons has started to shut down in bottle, which would not be surprising, given the style of the vintage and personality of this wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014. (Not yet released) Guillaume Gicqueau-Michel describes 2011 as a synthesis of 2009 and 2010, with the fleshiness of the former and the tension of the latter. Yields came in around historical averages, as opposed to 2010, which was down 20% across the board. The 2011s were born with considerable flesh, and were therefore spent less time on their lees than normal, with the exception of the grand crus. I tasted all of the 2011s from tank. Michel planned to bottle his 2011 premier crus in October 2012 and the grand crus the following spring. By comparison the 2010s saw extremely long fermentations, partly because of the estate’s reliance on natural yeasts. Like all growers in Chablis in this vintage, Michel described the vintage as significantly influenced by a complicated flowering that lowered yields and produced a high incidence of shatter and shot grapes. The 2010 grand crus were bottled in mid-April 2012. I was surprised by how well the wines are drinking today. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Pale, green-tinged yellow. Very closed nose hints at minerals, white truffle and red berries. Juicy, floral and tight; intensely flavored but quite light on its feet, with excellent inner-palate lift. Delivers lovely density without any impression of weight but this is painfully backward today.

2015-2020+. The estate's 2010 Chablis Vaillons is a striking wine graced with exquisite perfume and layers of fruit, all supported by a persistent vein of chalkiness. This is one of the more nervous, wiry wines of the lineup, but its class and pedigree are impossible to miss, even at this early stage. Hints of grapefruit and lime linger on the bright, articulate finish. In 2010, the Vaillons is made from parcels in Roncières, Châtains and Mélinots.