1997 Brunello di Montalcino
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Tasting notes
The ruby/garnet-colored 1997 Brunello di Montalcino is controversial, as well as a risky choice. Notes of Asian spices, soy, dried herbs, old leather, and damp earth are followed by a medium-bodied wine with extraordinarily high, nasty tannin. The aromatics are sweet, but in the mouth, the flavors are austere as well as lacking the concentration to support the structure. As always, time will prove which component triumphs. However, a quarter of a century tasting has shown that when the tannin is this high, it usually wins over the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014? Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200
Critic scores
Robert Parker
About the producer
A cult address for many Italian fine wine lovers, Cerbaiona is one of Montalcino’s top estates. The site has long been identified as special, but it was Diego Molinari who established its reputation. Today, Matthew Fioretti is at the helm, bringing the estate into the modern era.