1996 Nuits St Georges Blanc Les Perrieres

This wine is, as they so aptly described it a year ago, a fascinating curiosity. It is a strange wine, revealing characteristics of Pinot Noir yet being as white as any Meursault, that evolves wonderfully well. It is produced from 50 year old vines, offers rich aromas of pears, candied raspberries, strawberries, and notes of vanilla bean. Its palate provided me with flashbacks of going to Mme. Scanviou's epicerie (market) in my mother's native village in Brittany, and talking with the proprietress until she gave me sweet raspberry or strawberry-flavored lollipops - this wine tasted like those treats! This spicy, medium-to-full-bodied, and exceedingly well-balanced wine can be drunk in its youth or held for up to 15 years. I am happy to report that progress at Domaine Henri Gouges continues. Run by Pierre and Christian Gouges, respectively responsible for the viticulture and wine-making, the estate is charging forward to reclaim its spot as one of Nuits most highly respected domaines. As with every estate in Burgundy - (most were reluctant to admit it) - the 1996 yields were much higher than normal, averaging 45 hectoliters/hectare (as opposed to 35 h/h in 1995 and 29.7 h/h in 1997). However, the wines are rich, dense, and have lovely ripe fruit characteristics. The Gouges' threw out their filters in 1991, and only fine if they feel the tannins require softening. The wines I tasted were still on their lees (except for the white which had been bottled in September, 1997), and were going to be racked in February and then bottled a month later (earlier than normal). Christian Gouges felt as though they would not require fining. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.