1996 Nuits St Georges Les Vaucrains

This wine is outstanding. Revealing a color verging on dark ruby, this (also from 60 year old vines) has expressive aromas of blackberries, cassis, minerals, and porcini mushrooms. It has intense, mouth-coating, and rich layers of sweet black fruit-drenched stones, and earth-like flavors, as well as a rich, broad and deeply ripe full body. In addition, this very impressive wine offers an extremely long finish loaded with fat and round tannins. Drink it between 2004 and 2009. I am happy to report that progress at Domaine Henri Gouges continues. Run by Pierre and Christian Gouges, respectively responsible for the viticulture and wine-making, the estate is charging forward to reclaim its spot as one of Nuits most highly respected domaines. As with every estate in Burgundy - (most were reluctant to admit it) - the 1996 yields were much higher than normal, averaging 45 hectoliters/hectare (as opposed to 35 h/h in 1995 and 29.7 h/h in 1997). However, the wines are rich, dense, and have lovely ripe fruit characteristics. The Gouges' threw out their filters in 1991, and only fine if they feel the tannins require softening. The wines I tasted were still on their lees (except for the white which had been bottled in September, 1997), and were going to be racked in February and then bottled a month later (earlier than normal). Christian Gouges felt as though they would not require fining. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.