1989 Chevalier Montrachet
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Tasting notes
Deep, bright yellow; this and the 1990 show remarkably healthy colors for their age. Captivating aromatic perfume of yellow fruits, acacia flower, clove and sexy smoky oak is even more vibrant than that of the stunning 1990. Wonderfully elegant, silky and alive; if anything, this utterly seamless wine is more harmonious than the '90, with its saline minerality contributing to its impression of energy. This classically dry, penetrating Chevalier-Montrachet boasts an extremely long, noble finish with absolutely no rough edges. The yield here was much lower than in 1990, and yet this wine is even more refined and sedate. This splendid pair of vintages made a memorable ending to the vertical tasting at Domaine Leflaive, but I followed up by tasting three more vintages from the '80s chez moi in August. (14.4% alcohol; 3.25 pH; from a small crop owing to a poor fruit set)
Critic scores
Average Score
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Leflaive's 1989 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is still a very youthful wine as it approaches its 30th birthday, blossoming in the glass with aromas of ripe citrus fruit, beeswax, fresh peach, white flowers and warm bread. On the palate, it's full-bodied, muscular and concentrated, with a vibrant and tight-knit core that's still quite firmly structured, concluding with a long and resonant finish. With a pH of 3.36 and fully 14.4% alcohol, this is analytically the ripest wine in this tasting, yet it is exquisitely balanced and can age for another two decades in a good cellar.
Leflaive’s 1989 Chevalier-Montrachet was delicate, sensual and totally inspiring. Blessed with a liqueur-like inner sweetness, the 1989 revealed delicate scents of jasmine, licorice and acacia that melded seamlessly into round, sensual fruit. It was a great bottle to end a fabulous evening of wine and food.
About the producer
Domaine Leflaive is arguably Burgundy’s most famous white wine producer, setting the benchmark for top-quality Chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune and the world. The property is the largest land-owner in Puligny-Montrachet, with extensive holdings in the village and five hectares of Grand Cru vineyards