2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a reticent wine that takes quite a bit of time to open up. Dark wild cherries, licorice, leather and herbs emerge from this powerful, brooding Brunello. The wine gains freshness in the glass as the layers of flavor continue to fill out and the minerality comes alive. Firm, dusty tannins frame the building finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. This tiny, family run estate is located on the northern side of Montalcino. The Brunellos are made in a rigorously traditional fashion that starts with a non-interventionalist approach in the vineyards.. Aging takes place in cask, and the wines are neither fined nor filtered prior to being bottled. Both of these Brunellos are loaded with character, but they may not appeal to readers used to squeaky-clean, technically perfect wines. Those who can look past some small imperfections and give these wines plenty of air will be rewarded with some of the most unique Brunellos being made today. No American importer.

Dark ruby. Quite vegetal nose. Sweet fruit with unripe highish acidity and slightly astringent too. (WS)