2008 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc

The flagship white is the 2008 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, a blend of 65% Roussanne, 30% Grenache blanc, and a rarity of 5% Picpoul. This is really great stuff in 2008. The wine displays plenty of honeyed citrus, spring flowers, white peach, apricot, quince, and loads of wet rocks, giving a steely definition to its opulent, full-bodied, yet fresh flavors. This is a tour de force in dry white and Rhone Ranger blends. It’s impossible to know how long it will last, but I would drink it sooner rather than later. Robert Haas, the iconic French wine importer, who was one of the first to bring estate-bottled French wines into the United States, continues to go from strength to strength at Tablas Creek. His partner remains the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel in Chateauneuf du Pape. They have had three tiny vintages in a row, all producing very small yields, but the quality of their 2007s is the best in the history of the winery, and 2008 is certainly a strong vintage as well. These are wonderful, food-friendly wines with considerable complexity. While they do some varietal naming, the strength of Tablas Creek is their extraordinary Rhone Ranger blends, whether white or red. The 2009 vintage turned out to be an even smaller crop than 2008 and 2007 as a result of spring frost. Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314

(68% roussanne, 22% grenache blanc and 10% picpoul) Light, bright gold. Pungently floral aromas of lime, lemongrass and green apple, with notes of dusty minerals and honey. Deep citrus flavors are firmed by gentle chalk and white pepper qualities and show a strong tangerine note. Tangy and refreshing on the finish, leaving behind sweet citrus and mineral notes. This wine is really lively for a southern Rhone white blend.