2003 Chambertin
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Tasting notes
The 2003 vintage remains the hottest on record. While many 2003s have already fallen by the wayside, the best (typically from growers who cultivated their soils, favoring deeper, more resilient rooting systems, and who weren't on vacation when it was time to harvest) have aged surprisingly gracefully. The 2003 Chambertin Grand Cru falls into the latter category. The year's sunshine is evident in its rich crème de cassis fruit, intermingled with nuances of licorice, espresso roast and loamy soil, and it's full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a deep, unctuous profile but no signs of oxidation or fatigue. This is a very strong effort that would likely appear more classical if enjoyed on its own, without comparison with less-extreme years.
Critic scores
Average Score
Pierre Rovani
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(from 80-year-old vines; Dugat vinified whole clusters and did the punchdowns by hand) Deep ruby-red. Like a liqueur of griotte cherry on the nose, with notes of violet and eucalyptus; this is different from every other 2003 at this address. Large-scaled, rich and velvety but not especially sweet. Shows sound acidity and well-distributed tannins, with the chocolatey oak perfectly integrated with the wine's fruit. Offers great finesse and subtle persistence, with the minerality contributing to the wine's precision and thrust. Dugat says this parcel is planted at a very dense 14,000 vines to the hectare.
From a very old parcel (80+ years old) planted at a density of 14,000 vines per hectare, the 2003 Chambertin is produced in such minuscule quantities (only 140 liters – or 185 bottles – in 2003) that only the well-connected super wealthy can have a chance of ever buying it. Its wax, black cherry, blackberry, cassis, and black raspberry aromas lead to a full-bodied personality of unreal intensity. Powerful, hugely concentrated, deep, as well as with a focus rarely found in this vintage’s wines, this behemoth reveals oodles of licorice, chocolate, and black fruit flavors that linger in its exceedingly long finish. Projected maturity: 2009-2022+. Aug 2005, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
Dugat-Py, based at the base of the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey-Chambertin, stands as one of Burgundy’s most revered producers, known for crafting Pinot Noir of incredible depth, power, and age-worthiness.