2010 Bernkasteler Doctor Kabinett

The Thanisch 2010 Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett leads with site-typical, narcissus-like muskiness and nuttiness along with an intriguingly, not unpleasantly milky-yeasty overlay. Hints of citrus peel take on greater, piquant as well as sweet-sour prominence on the palate, which is delicate but firm. Somewhat detached citricity as well as the bitterness of zest and of apple pip and skin lead to a relatively severe finish, especially by the standards of wine from this site. But by the same token I have seldom tasted a young Doctor that seemed possessed of such sheer energy to burn and about the sheer impressive persistence of finish here there can be no doubt. I’d want to revisit this intriguing wine along the way but imagine that it will evolve positively for 10-12 years. Sofia Thanisch bottled only what she considered the commercially-dictated minimum of trocken and halbtrocken wine (which she did not offer me to taste) from 2010, and tended toward leaving behind higher than usual levels of residual sugar in the vintage’s other bottlings. De-acidification was via calcium carbonate (sometimes as must; sometimes as wine) and quite restrained, finished levels often remaining fearlessly, indeed almost freakishly high. Overall level of production was down 40% form long-term norms. Various importers, including P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424

RS 80 g/l. Fuel, lime, spice: rich and multi-dimensional. Fruit, sweetness and acid all perfectly balanced. Very gentle, but very persistent. (RH)

Another spontaneous ferment that smells almost like Sauvignon! A very slow developer that has some real character. Apple juice and structure. (JR)