2006 Chambolle Musigny Les Combottes

Representing the second year for a bottling dedicated to this site, Barthod's 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Combottes shares the bright, fresh red fruit character (currants and rhubarb) that is common to this entire collection, here allied to an especially savory salinity, with hints of white pepper and chalk dust, all making for an invigorating as well as saliva-inducing finish. Suggestions of raw meat emerge as the wine takes on air. For clarity to mineral impingements and brash, uplifting personality, this is hard to beat. But I could well understand it striking some tasters as a bit shrill. Surprisingly, the inaugural – 2005 – bottling was less bright and lively than its stable mates. Ghislaine Barthod's yields were low not only on account of hail (notably in Beaux Bruns and Charmes), she explained, but also on account of the relative paucity of juice in the berries. That said, as with so many of the best 2006s, Barthod's are generous and largely free of tannic severity. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990