1991 Musigny

The 1991 Musigny Grand Cru is a vintage that I have encountered twice over the years. The fully mature nose presents sous-bois aromas intermingling with leather and tea leaf; quite powerful, if not as finessed as the 1995. The palate is medium-bodied with fine balance and a smooth, velvety texture, but as before, I find the finish rather conservative and linear on one bottle, while yet another bestows an arching, almost Richebourg-like finish. Maybe there is a bit of bottle variation. Tasted at a private Sunday lunch in London.

The 1991s were controversial for the domaine at the time, but my second encounter with the 1991 Musigny Grand Cru suggests that it has only now settled down. Fully mature on the nose (more so than the previous bottle in 2011), there are strong undergrowth scents, tea leaf, leather and a touch of burnt toast augmenting the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied and rounded on the entry, nicely balanced with a silky, though conservative, finish that does not deliver the flourish, -the peacock’s tail- one might have hoped for on the finish. Still, this is a very fine Musigny. Drink now-2020. Tasted November 2013. Only the super-rich now have the privilege of tasting the wines of Christophe Roumier , which is a shame, and something that Christophe himself must rue. I vividly recall the moment when tasting his Musigny 2005 from barrel and he had just started receiving blank checks for any bottle he could spare. Roumier’s name was about to go from the esteemed to the iconic, with all the positives and negatives that it entails. So, whenever I have the opportunity to taste Christophe’s wines I grab it, whether it is the 2011s following our tasting of 2012s, or a super-rare bottle from the 1960s that appeared at a dinner. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600