2011 Meursault Charmes

Things get much more serious with the 2011 Meursault Les Charmes, which is a huge step up from the preceding wines in this lineup of Meursaults. It boasts stunning richness, density and minerality, all while remaining relatively light on its feet. There is weightlessness and textural polish to the Charmes that is simply remarkable. This is a gorgeous showing from Henri Boillot. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Not yet released) Henri Boillot recently finished his move to a new modern cellar in Champ Lins, one of the industrial sections of Meursault. Boillot describes his 2011s as having a bit more richness and better balance of fruit and acidity than the 2010s. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Boillot seems to be one case where the 2011s have the potential to be better across the board than the 2010s. As is often the case here, the village wines are particularly strong. Importers: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769, Cynthia Hurley French Wines, West Newton, MA Tel 617-965-4251 www.cynthiahurley.com and Chelsea Ventures, LLC, 1601 South Canal St, Chicago, IL 60616 tel. 847-920-5052

There is enough reduction present to mask the specific aromas but it seems clear that they are both ripe and complex. There is a beguiling refinement present to the solidly voluminous and concentrated medium weight flavors that exude a fine minerality on the detailed, punchy, balanced and impressively lingering finish. This should amply repay extended cellaring if desired. Tasted: Jun 11, 2013. Drink: 2018+

Things get much more serious with the 2011 Meursault Les Charmes, which is a huge step up from the preceding wines in this lineup of Meursaults. It boasts stunning richness, density and minerality, all while remaining relatively light on its feet. There is weightlessness and textural polish to the Charmes that is simply remarkable. This is a gorgeous showing from Henri Boillot. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Aug 2012, www.robertparker.com