1997 Calvari

Enzo Pontoni's 1997 Calvari is one of the most legendary wines ever made in Italy. It received an enormous amount of critical acclaim upon release. At the time tasters were understandably blown away by what Pontoni had been able to achieve with the notoriously difficult and humble Refosco. Tasting the wine today it is easy to see why it garnered so much attention. The soft, opulent 1997 Calvari flows from the glass with gorgeous inner sweetness and a seamless personality endowed with refined tannins. There is not a hard edge in sight. Roasted coffee beans, mocha, flowers and dark fruit come to life in this massive, powerful wine. The 1997 was the first and only Calvari aged in 200% new oak; meaning new barrels for the first 12 months and then new barrels again for a subsequent 20 months. Though still quite fresh and full of life – especially considering the hot weather that year – the 1997 is one of the wines that developed the least in the glass over several hours. It seemed trapped by a level of oak that in retrospect was excessive. The wine's harmony and sheer class, though, are beyond reproach.

The unctuously thick, black/purple-colored 1997 Ronco Calvari is astonishing. It displays Syrah-like characteristics (creme de cassis, blackberries, and melted road tar), as well as a thick, unctuous texture, and a blockbuster finish. This remarkable effort will be at its finest between 2001-2020. Kudo's to both Miani and his consulting oenologist, Roberto Cipresso. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620