2023 St Henri Shiraz
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Tasting notes
The 2023 St. Henri Shiraz was sourced from McLaren Vale (55%), Barossa Valley (21%), Frankland River (8%) and the balance from Port Lincoln and Padthaway. 2023 is the first time that Shiraz was sourced from Frankland River for the St. Henri, and this is significant, given it is Western Australia, when most of the fruit for the cuvées traditionally are sourced from the eastern states. To lend this comment context: 2023 was a cooler, wetter season in Barossa, a cooler season in McLaren Vale, and yet over in the west, it has shaped up to be one of the very best, most balanced, most energetic vintages in recent memory. So here, the 2023 St. Henri Shiraz is silky and fine, balanced and herbal, with star anise and shaved fennel, raspberry, milk chocolate, violets and freshness. It is really excellent. These current St. Henri's are very different in style to the early iterations of the cuvée, yet they manage to express a similar effortlessness and ease. I would say, on balance, that the alcohols are higher than the wines from the 1980s and before, yet the tannins are very polished and cleverly managed. I think this serves to set them apart or, at least, to create two schools of stylistic thinking—I am, for what it's worth, a fan of both. It matured for 12 months in large-format seasoned oak vats. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julie Sheppard, Decanter
Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
There's a real elegance and charm here, with the cooler vintage showing through in black and blue berries, plum, sweet spice, ferrous earth and dried herbs. The palate is plush and silky with a metallic-edged austerity, rounded out by silky tannins and bright acidity. Lovely tension and purity, with plenty more to unravel with time in bottle. Drink or hold.
Fruit from McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Frankland River, Port Lincoln, Padthaway. The only top Penfolds red matured entirely in larger-format oak – in this case, 12 months in large (1,460- to 4,500-litre) seasoned oak foudres. Fine, lifted aromatic bramble fruit, a touch of camphor, some ‘old-cellar’ aromas, sweet, dried mushroom, and leather. Wonderfully ‘old-fashioned’ and true to style: all open-textured, surprisingly ‘elegant’ (still lots of presence and flavour here), with an evenness and harmony to the tannins. A St Henri for earlier enjoyment. ~Max Allen
St Henri is the only top Penfolds red that doesn't rely on new oak, instead spending 12 months in large, seasoned oak vats. This no doubt contributes to its approachability in youth, which is even more evident in this appealing vintage. Harmonious and detailed aromas of freshly crushed black and blue fruits, with a meaty savouriness, herbal wafts and ironstone minerality, lead to a generous and open palate. Light on its feet, with finely wrought tannins and a persistent core of pitch-black fruit, adorned with an umami savouriness, gravelly minerality and spicy notes of star anise, liquorice and black tea. Fruit sourced from McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Frankland River and Port Lincoln. Released at £95.
About the producer
Penfolds is Australia’s most famous wine producer, known best for their iconic top wine, Grange. First produced commercially in 1952, Grange has since gone on to become one of the world’s most famous fine wines. In 2001, the wine was listed as an Australian heritage icon.