2020 Christophe Baron Les Hautes Blanches Vignes Charly-sur-Marne
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Tasting notes
Hailing from a mid-slope site with southwest exposure and a relatively shallow, 50-centimeter layer of clay-sand topsoil, Christophe Baron's 2020 Brut Nature Les Hautes Blanches Vignes, disgorged in April 2024 without dosage, opens with aromas of crisp pear, early-blooming white blossoms, peach and orange zest with a faint hint of nutmeg. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, vinous and bright, revealing a demonstrative core of fruit unmarked by the vegetal character associated with hydric stress—a trait occasionally encountered in the 2020 vintage at other addresses. Concentrated and vibrant, with a pillowy mousse, the wine is impeccably balanced and concludes with a long, saline finish. Stylistically, it falls somewhere between the vertical character of Le Dessus du Bois Marie and the richer, more textural Les Closeaux.
Critic scores
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Jeb Dunnuck
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
A pale straw/copper hue, the 2020 Champagne Les Hautes Blanches Vignes Brut Nature reveals a more savory and mineral profile, leading with notes of smoky wet stones, saline, strawberries, bread dough, and spice. While also medium-framed, the palate lends more intensity and nervous energy compared to the Le Dessus Du Bois Marie, with a lively spine of acidity, a pinpoint mousse, and a flourish of white pepper and grapefruit citrus lasting on the finish. It’s impressive already, but it will benefit from another year or more in bottle and has the structure to improve over the coming 15 or so years. Disgorged April 2024, and 1215 magnums were produced.
The 2020 Brut Nature Les Hautes Blanches Vignes is once again the star of the show. It emerges from a tiny 0.6 hectare parcel in Charly-sur-Marne. Bright and saline, with notable drive, the Hautes Blanches Vignes sizzles with tension. Citrus, dried flowers, slate and green orchard fruit are some of the many notes that come alive in the glass. While the other 2022s are quite open already, I would cellar this for at least a year or two. It's a gorgeous, captivating Champagne from Christophe Baron. Zero dosage. Disgorged: May 2024.