2013 Chablis Vaudesir

The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir is one of the very few 2013s that may surpass its 2012 counterpart. The nose comes zinging out of the glass with citrus fruit, tinned apricots and just a touch of nutmeg. What I like is the joie de vivre here, the energy, which is translated onto the palate. No, it is not the most complex Vaudésir on the planet, yet you cannot deny its balance and tension, the well-judged acidity that prevent any blowsiness, plus that fruit intensity ladled out on the finish. It's the kind of Chablis Grand Cru that you know you should cellar for several years but will probably end up drinking in the flush of youth without a tinge of regret. And why not?